:root {
  --paper: #FFFFFF;
  --ink: #242423;
  --ink-soft: #5B5B58;
  --teal: #0D9488;
  --teal-deep: #0B7A70;
  --wash: #F6F7F6;
  --hair: #E7E7E3;
  --bar: 6px;
  --gap: 28px;
  --max: 1160px;
}
*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; }
body {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--paper);
  color: var(--ink);
  font-family: "Readex Pro", system-ui, sans-serif;
  font-weight: 300;
  font-size: 17px;
  line-height: 1.7;
}
h1, h2, h3 { font-weight: 600; line-height: 1.18; letter-spacing: -0.015em; margin: 0; }
p { margin: 0; }
a { color: inherit; }
.sr { position: absolute; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }
.wrap { width: 100%; max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 24px; }

/* the one device: a thick teal bar on the left edge, nothing else */
.bar-block, .bar-card { border-left: var(--bar) solid var(--teal); padding-left: 28px; }
.bar-card { background: var(--paper); padding: 30px 30px 30px 28px; }

/* header */
.topbar { background: var(--paper); box-shadow: inset 0 -3px 0 var(--teal); position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 20; }
.topbar__row { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; min-height: 76px; gap: 24px; }
.mark { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; text-decoration: none; font-weight: 600; font-size: 21px; letter-spacing: -0.02em; }
.mark__glyph { width: 22px; height: 22px; background: var(--paper); box-shadow: inset 6px 0 0 var(--teal), inset 0 0 0 1px var(--hair); border-radius: 3px; }
.primary ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: flex; gap: 34px; }
.primary a { text-decoration: none; font-weight: 400; font-size: 15.5px; padding: 6px 0; background: linear-gradient(var(--teal), var(--teal)) 0 100% / 0 2px no-repeat; transition: background-size .22s ease; }
.primary a:hover, .primary a:focus-visible, .primary a[aria-current="page"] { background-size: 100% 2px; }
.primary a[aria-current="page"] { font-weight: 500; }
.menu-btn { display: none; width: 44px; height: 44px; border: 0; background: none; cursor: pointer; padding: 0; }
.menu-btn__lines, .menu-btn__lines::before, .menu-btn__lines::after { display: block; width: 22px; height: 2px; background: var(--ink); margin: 0 auto; position: relative; }
.menu-btn__lines::before, .menu-btn__lines::after { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; }
.menu-btn__lines::before { top: -7px; }
.menu-btn__lines::after { top: 7px; }
a:focus-visible, button:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--teal); outline-offset: 3px; }

/* shared */
main { display: block; }
.kicker { font-size: 13px; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--teal-deep); margin-bottom: 14px; }
.block { padding-top: 72px; }
.block__title { font-size: 26px; margin-bottom: 28px; }
.grid { display: grid; gap: var(--gap); }
.grid--2 { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
.grid--hotels { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
.grid--single { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 760px); }

/* hero */
.hero-wrap { padding-top: 64px; }
.hero { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1.05fr; gap: 48px; align-items: center; }
.hero h1 { font-size: clamp(34px, 4.6vw, 54px); font-weight: 600; margin-bottom: 22px; }
.hero__lede { font-size: 18.5px; color: var(--ink-soft); max-width: 36em; }

/* hero media */
.hero-media { margin: 0; overflow: hidden; background: var(--wash); }
.hero-media img { display: block; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; aspect-ratio: 1 / 1; }
.hero-media--wide { margin-top: 36px; }
.hero-media--wide img { aspect-ratio: 21 / 9; }

/* category cards */
.cat { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 12px; text-decoration: none; transition: background-color .2s ease; }
.cat:hover, .cat:focus-visible { background: var(--wash); }
.cat h3 { font-size: 24px; }
.cat p { color: var(--ink-soft); }
.cat__count { margin-top: auto; padding-top: 10px; font-size: 14px; font-weight: 500; }

/* closing */
.closing { max-width: 820px; padding-top: 6px; padding-bottom: 6px; }
.closing h2 { font-size: 28px; margin-bottom: 14px; }
.closing p { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 18px; }

/* category page */
.page-head { padding-top: 64px; }
.page-head h1 { font-size: clamp(36px, 5vw, 58px); }
.page-head__lede { margin-top: 18px; max-width: 42em; font-size: 18.5px; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.hotel { display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.hotel__place { font-size: 14px; font-weight: 400; color: var(--ink-soft); margin-bottom: 6px; }
.hotel h2 { font-size: 26px; margin-bottom: 18px; }
.hotel__prose p + p { margin-top: 14px; }
.tags { list-style: none; margin: auto 0 0; padding: 22px 0 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 6px 22px; }
.tags li { font-size: 13.5px; font-weight: 500; }

/* long-form */
.longform { max-width: 720px; padding-left: calc(var(--bar) + 28px); }
.longform h2 { font-size: 21px; margin: 40px 0 10px; }
.longform h2:first-child { margin-top: 0; }
.longform p + p { margin-top: 14px; }

/* footer */
.foot { margin-top: 96px; background: var(--paper); box-shadow: inset 0 3px 0 var(--teal); padding-top: 56px; }
.foot__grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 2fr 1fr 1fr; gap: 40px; }
.foot__name { font-weight: 600; font-size: 20px; margin-bottom: 10px; }
.foot__about p:last-child { color: var(--ink-soft); font-size: 15px; max-width: 30em; }
.foot__head { font-weight: 500; font-size: 13px; letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; margin-bottom: 12px; }
.foot ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: 6px; }
.foot ul a { text-decoration: none; font-size: 15px; }
.foot ul a:hover { color: var(--teal-deep); }
.foot__last { padding-top: 40px; padding-bottom: 32px; }
.foot__last p { font-size: 13.5px; color: var(--ink-soft); }

@media (max-width: 900px) {
  .hero { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 32px; }
  .hero-wrap { padding-top: 44px; }
  .grid--hotels, .grid--2 { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .foot__grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .foot__about { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
}
@media (max-width: 760px) {
  .menu-btn { display: block; }
  .primary { position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0; top: 100%; background: var(--paper); box-shadow: inset 0 -3px 0 var(--teal); display: none; }
  .primary.is-open { display: block; }
  .primary ul { flex-direction: column; gap: 0; padding: 8px 16px 20px; }
  .primary a { display: inline-block; padding: 12px 0; font-size: 17px; }
  .topbar__row { position: relative; min-height: 64px; }
}
@media (max-width: 560px) {
  body { font-size: 16px; }
  .wrap { padding: 0 16px; }
  .bar-block { padding-left: 18px; }
  .bar-card { padding: 22px 18px; }
  .longform { padding-left: 0; }
  .block { padding-top: 52px; }
  .foot__grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { * { transition: none !important; } }